Hy there....
i have big problems setting up my configuration!
Car is a Mini John Cooper Works 2009
Dash2 + OBD Can Interface
when i connect the Interface to my Laptop and do a data stream
i get several channels including, engine rpm, speed, boost pressure, intake air temp and so on....
when i connect the dash2 to the interface i just cant get the engine rpm, and no speed. and the boost pressure is shown including the atmospheric pressure wich is normally 0,9 bar.
i now tryed almost every combination of what i could type inn....
nothing works, nothing at all...
could anyone help me?
please!
MINI John Cooper Works / Dash2 / OBD Interface - Problems
Did you go into the DASH2 on screen menus to set up speed? If from the OBD reader, it needs to be set to RS232=Yes and DASH2=No. (you need to wire in the 4 buttons to do this)
For boost, did you put in the appropriate formula to scale it? The default formula is probably in absolute, not gauge pressure.
For boost, did you put in the appropriate formula to scale it? The default formula is probably in absolute, not gauge pressure.
BMW 2000 M Coupe
I just go to configuration software in race technology for dash2, configurated it, connected it to the dash and send configuration to dash! what is the "DASH2 on screen menus"????
and what do you exactly mean with "If from the OBD reader, it needs to be set to RS232=Yes and DASH2=No"
i´m not a electric genius you have to know!
the equation formula for boost pressure did already stood there? dont know how to change it!? and how to change it wright!?
and what do you exactly mean with "If from the OBD reader, it needs to be set to RS232=Yes and DASH2=No"
i´m not a electric genius you have to know!
the equation formula for boost pressure did already stood there? dont know how to change it!? and how to change it wright!?
Wiring in the 4 buttons is basically mandatory:
Pin-outs on the connector:
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/ind ... itchInputs
The menu structure that you need to get into (with the buttons) to set up the Dash2. You can use the RT buttons or get some from an electronics supply store (radio shack...)
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/ind ... uStructure
Yeah - it's not really clear that you need the 4 buttons to set it up. It's really just implied in the knowledge base, but there it is. You'd think you could do it all from the PC configuration software.
But you will at least need the up/down buttons to page through the different screens.
I'm confident that the odometer only works if you wire in a separate wheel speed sensor to the Dash2. IMHO, that's a good idea anyway since you can get a calibrated speed to the tire diameter without a GPS lock. Pretty sure that's a requirement for US and UK road legal licensing. I'll bet that the ECU will give a speed reading that is ~3-5% high.
FYI - systems like this are almost never true plug and play. There is always fiddling around that needs to be done. I normally need to read the manual 3-4 times to *get* it all.
Pin-outs on the connector:
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/ind ... itchInputs
The menu structure that you need to get into (with the buttons) to set up the Dash2. You can use the RT buttons or get some from an electronics supply store (radio shack...)
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/ind ... uStructure
Yeah - it's not really clear that you need the 4 buttons to set it up. It's really just implied in the knowledge base, but there it is. You'd think you could do it all from the PC configuration software.
But you will at least need the up/down buttons to page through the different screens.
I'm confident that the odometer only works if you wire in a separate wheel speed sensor to the Dash2. IMHO, that's a good idea anyway since you can get a calibrated speed to the tire diameter without a GPS lock. Pretty sure that's a requirement for US and UK road legal licensing. I'll bet that the ECU will give a speed reading that is ~3-5% high.
FYI - systems like this are almost never true plug and play. There is always fiddling around that needs to be done. I normally need to read the manual 3-4 times to *get* it all.
Last edited by osborni on Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BMW 2000 M Coupe
many thanks!
i already have these buttons, but not installed, i thougt i dont will need them!
okay, i will try this!
and does someone have an idea hot to set up the boost pressure for a correct worth?! now it shows the wrigth bosst pressure, but always plus the atmospheric pressure (at least 0.9bar) so under hard acceleration i have a boost pressure of 2.3bar, dont thing my small 1.6 works engine would handle this!
thanks a lot!
i already have these buttons, but not installed, i thougt i dont will need them!
okay, i will try this!
and does someone have an idea hot to set up the boost pressure for a correct worth?! now it shows the wrigth bosst pressure, but always plus the atmospheric pressure (at least 0.9bar) so under hard acceleration i have a boost pressure of 2.3bar, dont thing my small 1.6 works engine would handle this!
thanks a lot!
You can develop a conversion scale. Do you have a stand alone boost meter?
Assuming that you do....
Open up the config software.
Find the right pull down from within the "Input scaling" Tab = (Boost pressure ?)
You enter the data into the "Generate an equation from a table"
Where the column "Input X (Volts)" is what you read off the Dash2
and
Output is what you want the reading to be in the Dash2
But you need a stand alone boost gauge to get the actual pressures you see - and the ability to hold the throttle at a steady state at a load so your motor will be stable, etc. (or something like that)
You might be able to get a calibration curve off a message board or from the manufacturer of the boost sensor (probably Bosch for a BMW part).
Stock it should be around ~11-13 psi. Tuned, probably up to 20-25psi.
Full idle vacuum (at least on my s52 M Coupe) is about -13 PSI.
Assuming that you do....
Open up the config software.
Find the right pull down from within the "Input scaling" Tab = (Boost pressure ?)
You enter the data into the "Generate an equation from a table"
Where the column "Input X (Volts)" is what you read off the Dash2
and
Output is what you want the reading to be in the Dash2
But you need a stand alone boost gauge to get the actual pressures you see - and the ability to hold the throttle at a steady state at a load so your motor will be stable, etc. (or something like that)
You might be able to get a calibration curve off a message board or from the manufacturer of the boost sensor (probably Bosch for a BMW part).
Stock it should be around ~11-13 psi. Tuned, probably up to 20-25psi.
Full idle vacuum (at least on my s52 M Coupe) is about -13 PSI.
BMW 2000 M Coupe
Alternatives:
Since the Dash2 already has 4 analog inputs, you might want to think about directly wiring in some inputs.
Throttle - TPS is normally "free" as the car already has the sensor - just need to tap it. The other issue is that OBD is pretty slow and won't pick up real time changes in TPS
Oil P and Temp work from OBD, but you can direct wire them.
Water T as well.
You can also direct wire a boost sensor. 0-30 psiA meter (0 psiA is absolute vacuum, ~14 psiA is sea level) Probably $60-$80 off ebay. ~$120 new from digikey. It likely reacts too fast for OBD to be accurate.
AFR is also common - and moves too fast for a live reading off OBD.
If I where to do driver input and just had 4 and left the engine monitoring to the OBD, I'd do:
TPS
Brake pressure
Steering Angle
OilP (more for redundancy and you want a fast reaction if your oil pump dies or something) Maybe boost on a FI car.
That will give you more than enough information to focus on driver improvement and leave the slower OBD to monitor engine health.
Since the Dash2 already has 4 analog inputs, you might want to think about directly wiring in some inputs.
Throttle - TPS is normally "free" as the car already has the sensor - just need to tap it. The other issue is that OBD is pretty slow and won't pick up real time changes in TPS
Oil P and Temp work from OBD, but you can direct wire them.
Water T as well.
You can also direct wire a boost sensor. 0-30 psiA meter (0 psiA is absolute vacuum, ~14 psiA is sea level) Probably $60-$80 off ebay. ~$120 new from digikey. It likely reacts too fast for OBD to be accurate.
AFR is also common - and moves too fast for a live reading off OBD.
If I where to do driver input and just had 4 and left the engine monitoring to the OBD, I'd do:
TPS
Brake pressure
Steering Angle
OilP (more for redundancy and you want a fast reaction if your oil pump dies or something) Maybe boost on a FI car.
That will give you more than enough information to focus on driver improvement and leave the slower OBD to monitor engine health.
BMW 2000 M Coupe
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